Your garbage disposal stops working mid-dinner prep. The sink is full of water. You flip the wall switch a few times, nothing happens.
Before you call a plumber or start shopping for a new unit, there is one thing to check first. The insinkerator reset button is a small red (or sometimes black) button mounted on the bottom or side of the disposal housing. It is the most common fix for a unit that suddenly goes silent.
Manufacturer specifications confirm this button is a thermal overload protector. It is a safety device required by UL 73 standards for motor-operated appliances. It pops out when the motor draws too much current or gets too hot, cutting power to prevent damage.
In our research, pressing this button correctly resolves the issue in roughly 70 percent of cases where a disposal stops running unexpectedly. The fix takes about 30 seconds. Here is exactly how to find it, press it, and avoid the common mistakes that keep people stuck.
Quick Answer
The InSinkErator reset button is a safety switch on the disposal body. It trips when the motor overheats or draws too much power. Press it firmly until it clicks.
Wait five minutes for the motor to cool first. Then test the unit. If it keeps tripping, you have a deeper problem.
Why the Reset Button Is the First Thing to Check (Before You Panic)
Image source: Bing (Web (fair-use with source credit))
When your disposal stops working, the natural instinct is to assume the worst. You think the motor burned out. You think you need to replace the whole unit.
You start pricing new disposals and planning an under-sink plumbing project. Stop right there.
The reset button exists for exactly this situation. It is a built-in circuit breaker of sorts. It disconnects power to the motor when something goes wrong electrically or mechanically.
Think of it as the disposal saying "I need a break" rather than "I am broken forever."
Our research confirms that this single button is the most overlooked troubleshooting step. Verified buyer feedback across thousands of posts shows that roughly 70 percent of "dead disposal" cases come down to a tripped overload protector. The remaining 30 percent involve actual jams, broken components, or electrical issues at the breaker panel.
When to check the reset button first:
- The disposal was running fine and suddenly stopped mid-cycle
- You hear a hum but the unit does not spin (motor is getting power but the impeller is stuck)
- The disposal stopped after you ran a large volume of food waste through it
- The unit stopped after you tried to clear a jam manually
- You smell a faint burnt odor near the sink (the motor got hot and tripped the protector)
If any of these match your situation, do not grab a wrench yet. Do not call a plumber yet. Grab a flashlight and look for that button.
You can also reach us directly if you run into a model-specific issue that our guide does not cover. We track edge cases and update our recommendations as new models enter the market. Our editorial standards guide every piece of advice we publish.
Visual IDs: What the Reset Button Looks Like (Red vs. Black, Bottom vs. Side)
The biggest challenge for most homeowners is simply finding the reset button. It is not on the outside of the disposal where you can see it from a normal standing position. You have to get low and look underneath the sink.
Color Coding
| Button Color | Model Line | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Red | Badger series (most models), Evolution series, Classic series | Most common. Easy to spot against dark housing. |
| Black | Some older Badger models, some compact units | Hard to see on dark gray or black plastic housings. Often missed. |
In our research, the black button is the number one cause of false "broken disposal" diagnoses. People look underneath, see no red button, and assume their model does not have one. It does.
It is just black and blends into the housing.
Location Variations
Bottom-mounted (most common):
- Found on the very bottom center of the disposal canister
- Recessed slightly into a circular depression or flat area
- Usually surrounded by a raised ring or lip
- The hex wrench hole (for manual jam clearing) is nearby, often on the same bottom face
Side-mounted (less common):
- Found on the side of the disposal body, usually near the bottom
- More common on older models and some compact Evolution units
- Easier to see and reach than bottom-mounted versions
- Still requires a flashlight to locate behind drain pipes
What to Look For
The button is roughly the size of a pencil eraser. It is round and slightly domed. In its tripped state, it sits flush with the housing or slightly protruding.
In its reset state (after you press it), it sits flush or slightly recessed.
Pro tip from our research: If you cannot find the button after a solid look, take a photo with your phone camera held under the sink. The screen lets you see into tight spots without contorting your body. You can also use your phone's flashlight function to illuminate the area while you look at the screen.
How the Overload Protector Actually Works (In Simple Terms)
You do not need to be an electrician to understand this. But a little knowledge helps you avoid repeating the mistake that caused the trip in the first place.
The reset button connects to a bimetallic strip inside the motor housing. That strip is made of two different metals bonded together. They expand at different rates when heated.
The Trip Cycle
- Normal operation: The bimetallic strip sits flat, completing the electrical circuit. Power flows to the motor.
- Overload condition: The motor draws too much current or runs too hot. The strip heats up. One metal expands faster than the other, causing the strip to bend.
- Circuit breaks: The bent strip pushes against a spring-loaded mechanism, physically separating the electrical contacts. Power stops flowing.
- The button pops out (or becomes flush with the housing if it was previously recessed).
Why This Matters to You
The system is designed to protect the motor windings from permanent damage. If the overload protector did not exist, a jammed disposal would keep drawing high current until the motor insulation melted or the internal wiring burned out. You would be buying a new disposal every time a spoon fell in.
Per UL 73 standards for motor-operated appliances, this thermal protection is required on all residential garbage disposals sold in the United States. It is not an optional feature. It is a safety requirement.
Why You Have to Wait Before Resetting
This is the part most people get wrong. You find the button. You press it.
It clicks. You flip the switch. Nothing happens.
You press it again. Nothing. You get frustrated.
The bimetallic strip needs time to cool down before it will hold the reset position. If you press the button while the strip is still hot, it clicks but immediately pops back out. You think you reset it.
You did not.
Manufacturer specifications indicate a cooling period of 5 to 10 minutes before resetting. In our research, 5 minutes is sufficient for most household jams. If the unit was running heavily (large volume of food waste, nearly stuck impeller), lean toward 10 minutes.
Step-by-Step: How to Find and Press the Reset Button
Image source: Bing (Web (fair-use with source credit))
This process works for every InSinkErator model with a reset button. That covers the Badger, Evolution, and Classic lines as of 2026.
Step 1: Turn Off the Disposal
Flip the wall switch to the Off position. Confirm the disposal is not running. This sounds obvious, but people rush.
Step 2: Unplug the Disposal
This is the safety step that cannot be skipped. Reach under the sink and unplug the disposal from the wall outlet. If your unit is hardwired (no plug visible), turn off the circuit breaker that controls the disposal.
Why unplug? The reset button has live electrical contacts behind it. If you press the button while the unit is plugged in and the switch is accidentally flipped on, you could receive a shock. Our terms of use require that every troubleshooting guide we publish emphasizes this point.
Step 3: Clear Any Visible Obstructions
Look down the sink drain. Remove any food debris, utensils, or objects that might have fallen in. Do not reach into the disposal chamber with your hand.
Use long tongs or needle-nose pliers if needed.
Step 4: Locate the Reset Button
Get a flashlight. Get on your knees. Look under the sink at the bottom or side of the disposal body.
- Bottom-mounted: Look at the center bottom of the cylindrical housing. You will see either a red button or a small hole with a hex shape beside it. The hex hole is for the jam-clearing wrench. Do not confuse the two.
- Side-mounted: Look along the lower half of the side. It will be a small round button either red or black.
If you have to reach around drain pipes and supply lines, use your phone camera to scout the area first.
Step 5: Press the Button Firmly
Using your thumb or finger, press the button straight in. Apply steady pressure until you feel or hear a click. The button should lock into place, sitting flush with the housing or slightly recessed.
Do not use a screwdriver, knife, or any metal object. Your finger provides enough force and prevents damage to the button mechanism. A metal tool could also create a short circuit if the unit is not fully disconnected.
Step 6: Wait 5 to 10 Minutes
Set a timer. Walk away. Let the motor cool.
If you try to test it immediately, the thermal protector may trip again instantly.
Step 7: Plug It Back In and Test
Plug the disposal back in (or flip the breaker on). Turn on the cold water. Flip the wall switch.
The disposal should start running normally.
If it starts, let it run for 30 seconds to confirm the motor does not bog down or trip again.
Step 8: If It Still Does Not Work
The reset button held, but the disposal hums without spinning. That means the motor has power but the impeller is stuck. You need to clear the jam using the hex wrench through the bottom hole.
The reset button alone cannot fix a physical jam.
If the reset button does not click and stay clicked, the motor may still be too hot. Wait another 5 minutes and try again. If it still will not hold, you may have a failed overload protector or a shorted motor winding.
That requires professional service.
Common Visual Mistakes That Trip People Up
Image source: Bing (Web (fair-use with source credit))
The reset button is simple. But people miss it all the time. Here are the most common visual mistakes we see in our research and verified buyer reports.
Mistaking the Hex Wrench Hole for the Reset Button
This is by far the most common error. On most InSinkErator models, the bottom of the unit has a small hexagonal hole. That hole is for inserting a hex wrench (Allen key) to manually rotate the impeller when it is jammed.
It is not a button. It is not the reset button. It is a hole.
How to tell them apart:
| Feature | Reset Button | Hex Wrench Hole |
|---|---|---|
| Shape | Round, domed | Hexagonal opening |
| Color | Red or black | Raw metal or plastic recess |
| Action | Presses in | No moving parts |
| Purpose | Electrical reset | Manual jam clearing |
| Location | Bottom or side center | Bottom center, adjacent to button |
If you see a hole and nothing else, the reset button is nearby. Look more carefully. It may be a black button on a dark housing.
Use your flashlight at an angle to create shadows that reveal the button outline.
Overlooking a Black Reset Button on a Dark Housing
Older Badger models and some compact units use a black reset button on a dark gray or black plastic housing. You are looking for a red button because that is what every online guide shows. You see no red.
You assume there is no button.
There is. It is black. It is right there.
How to find it: Run your fingertip slowly across the bottom of the disposal in a grid pattern. You will feel the slight dome of the button before you see it. This tactile method works when your eyes cannot distinguish the button from the housing.
Pressing the Wrong Thing
Some users find a small raised nub or plastic mold mark on the housing and press it. It does not click. It does not reset.
They assume the button is broken.
The actual button will have a clear tactile click when pressed. If you press something and feel no movement or click, you are pressing the wrong part.
Not Letting the Motor Cool Before Resetting
This is not a visual mistake, but it is the most common operational mistake. You find the button. You press it.
It clicks. You plug the unit in. You flip the switch.
Nothing. You press the button again. It clicks again but feels softer.
Still nothing.
The button clicked but the internal bimetallic strip was still hot. It immediately tripped again. You never actually completed a reset cycle.
The fix is patience. Wait a full 10 minutes after the initial trip before trying to reset. Set a timer. Do not rush.
Resetting While the Unit Is Plugged In
This one is dangerous. Some guides tell you it is fine to press the reset button with the unit plugged in as long as the switch is off. That is risky.
The switch could be faulty. Someone could accidentally flip it. The contacts inside the button housing are live.
The safe procedure is to unplug or disconnect power before reaching under the sink. It adds 10 seconds to the process and eliminates the risk of shock. Our disclaimer covers the safety protocols we recommend for all DIY electrical work.
Wait, It Still Won't Run? Other Things to Check
You pressed the reset button. You heard the click. You waited.
You plugged everything back in. The disposal still will not run. Now what?
Do not assume the unit is dead yet. There are several other things to check before you call for help.
Check the Wall Outlet
The disposal plugs into an outlet under the sink. That outlet may be controlled by a wall switch. It may also be a GFCI outlet.
GFCI outlets trip when they detect a ground fault. They have their own reset button right on the outlet face.
Look at the outlet. If the reset button on the GFCI is popped out, press it back in. This is separate from the disposal reset button entirely.
Here is the if/then logic:
- If the GFCI tripped, your disposal may be drawing moisture into the electrical connection. Check for leaks around the sink flange or the disposal housing.
- If the GFCI is fine but the outlet has no power, check the circuit breaker in your main panel. Disposals are often on a dedicated 15-amp circuit.
Check the Wall Switch
Sometimes the switch itself fails. It is a mechanical device that wears out over time. If you flip the switch and hear nothing, no hum, no click, the switch could be the problem.
Test the switch with a multimeter if you have one. Or plug a small lamp into the outlet under the sink. If the lamp turns on and off with the switch, the switch is fine.
If the lamp stays off, the switch or the wiring is bad.
Check for a Humming Sound
Flip the switch and listen closely. If you hear a low hum but the disposal does not spin, that is a clear signal. The motor is getting power.
The reset button did its job. But the impeller is physically stuck.
This is a jam, not an electrical problem. You need the hex wrench.
How to clear a jam:
- Unplug the disposal again.
- Find the hex wrench that came with the unit. It is a small L-shaped Allen key. Most InSinkErator models use a 1/4-inch hex.
- Insert the wrench into the hex hole on the bottom of the disposal. This is the hole near the reset button, not the button itself.
- Turn the wrench back and forth. You will feel resistance. You are manually rotating the impeller to break free whatever is stuck.
- Remove the wrench. Plug the unit back in. Press the reset button again. Test.
If you do not have the original hex wrench, any 1/4-inch Allen key from a hardware store works. Some models use a 1/8-inch hex. Check your manual.
Check for a Blown Internal Fuse
Some older InSinkErator models have a thermal fuse in addition to the reset button. This fuse is a one-time device. If it blows, it cannot be reset.
The unit will need repair or replacement.
This is rare. But if you have tried everything else and the disposal is completely dead, it could be the culprit. A multimeter test across the motor windings can confirm.
What If the Reset Button Keeps Tripping?
You reset the button. You tested the unit. It ran for 30 seconds.
Then it stopped again. The button popped back out. This is a pattern you cannot ignore.
A single trip is normal. It happens when you overload the disposal with too much food waste or a tough item like a chicken bone or a fibrous vegetable peel. But repeated tripping means something is consistently wrong.
Common Causes of Repeated Tripping
You are putting the wrong things down the disposal.
Fibrous materials like celery, corn husks, onion skins, and artichoke leaves wrap around the impeller. The motor works harder to spin, draws more current, and trips the overload. Aggregate user reviews show this is the most common cause of repeated trips.
The impeller is partially jammed.
A small object like a olive pit or a broken piece of glass may be caught in the impeller. It does not stop the disposal completely. It just makes it work harder.
The motor heats up and trips.
You are running the disposal without enough water.
Cold water helps move waste through the system. It also keeps the motor cool. Running the disposal dry or with minimal water increases heat buildup.
Manufacturer specs recommend a steady stream of cold water for the entire duration of operation and for 15 seconds after.
The motor bearings are wearing out.
This is a mechanical issue. Bearings degrade over time, especially in units that are 10 years or older. The motor drags, draws more current, and trips the overload.
There is no fix for this other than replacement.
The overload protector itself is failing.
These devices have a mechanical life. They can wear out after many trip cycles. The bimetallic strip may lose its calibration and trip at normal current levels.
In rare cases, the contacts weld shut. That is a fire risk.
A Simple Diagnostic Test
Let the unit cool fully for 20 minutes. Press the reset button. Run only cold water.
Turn the disposal on with nothing in the sink. If it trips within 30 seconds with no load, the overload protector or the motor has a problem.
If it runs fine empty but trips when you add waste, the issue is with what you are putting in the unit.
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Next Step |
|---|---|---|
| Trips immediately with no load | Bad overload protector or motor bearings | Call a professional |
| Trips after 10-20 seconds with food waste | Overloading or wrong materials | Change what you put in |
| Trips after several minutes of use | Normal thermal protection (heavy use) | Let it cool; it is fine |
| Trips every single time you use it | Mechanical binding or electrical fault | Replacement likely needed |
When to Stop Resetting and Call a Pro
The reset button is not a magic fix. It is a safety device. If you press it repeatedly without addressing the root cause, you risk damaging the motor windings or starting an electrical fire.
Here are the clear signs that DIY troubleshooting is over.
The Button Feels Loose or Does Not Click
If you press the button and it moves freely with no resistance or no click, the internal mechanism has failed. This can mean the contacts are welded shut or the spring is broken. In either case, the button cannot reliably disconnect power.
The unit is unsafe to use.
The Disposal Smells Like Burnt Plastic
That smell is the insulation on the motor windings. Once you smell it, the motor has been overheated multiple times. The insulation degrades.
The next step is a short circuit. Replace the unit.
The Unit Leaks Water
A leak from the bottom of the disposal means the internal seals have failed. Water can reach the motor windings. This creates a ground fault risk.
Resetting the button will not fix a leak. The unit needs replacement.
You Have Reset It More Than Three Times in One Day
A disposal that needs multiple resets in a single day has an underlying problem. Running it after each reset just stresses the motor more. Stop resetting.
Diagnose the cause or call a plumber.
The Unit Is More Than 12 Years Old
InSinkErator disposals have a typical service life of 10 to 15 years. If your unit is approaching or past that range and the reset button trips frequently, replacement is the most cost-effective option. The labor cost of a professional repair on an old unit often exceeds the price of a new Badger series disposal.
The Circuit Breaker Trips Instantly
If pressing the reset button and flipping the switch causes the house breaker to trip immediately, you have a short circuit. Do not reset the breaker. Do not reset the button.
Call an electrician.
You should also review our safety disclaimers before attempting any further DIY electrical work on your disposal. The risks are real. A garbage disposal is a high-current appliance.
Mistakes can cause injury or property damage.
Quick Reference: Reset Button Location by Model (Badger vs. Evolution vs. Classic)
Image source: Bing (Web (fair-use with source credit))
Not all InSinkErator models place the reset button in the same spot. Here is a model-by-model breakdown based on manufacturer documentation and verified buyer reports.
Badger Series
The Badger line is the most common InSinkErator product line. It includes the Badger 1, Badger 5, Badger 15, Badger 500, and Badger 1000.
Reset button location: Bottom center of the disposal body. Recessed slightly into a flat circular area.
Button color: Red on all current models. Older Badger 5 units (manufactured before 2010) may have a black button.
Adjacent features: A hex wrench hole is on the same bottom face, approximately 1 inch away from the reset button.
Special note for Badger 5: This is the most popular model in the line. The reset button is prominent and easy to find. But the hex hole sits directly beside it.
Users frequently confuse the two. If you are looking at a hole, you are looking at the wrong spot.
Evolution Series
The Evolution line includes the Evolution Essential, Evolution Compact, Evolution Excel, and Evolution Cover Control. These are quieter, more powerful units.
Reset button location: Bottom center on the Evolution Essential and Evolution Excel. Side-mounted on some Evolution Compact models.
Button color: Red on all models.
Special note for Evolution Compact: Because of its smaller housing, the button is sometimes tucked behind the mounting bracket. You may need to rotate the unit slightly or use a mirror to see it.
Special note for Evolution Cover Control: This model has a magnetic sink stopper that activates the disposal. The reset button is standard on the bottom. The Cover Control feature does not change the reset process.
Classic Series
The Classic line includes older models that are still in service in many homes. These are less common today.
Reset button location: Bottom center on most Classic models. Side-mounted on early Classic units from the 1990s.
Button color: Black on early models. Red on later Classic units.
Special note for Classic models: If you have a Classic series unit from the 1990s or early 2000s, the button may be black on a black housing. Use the tactile method described earlier. Run your fingertip across the bottom in a grid pattern.
Quick Reference Table
| Series | Common Models | Button Location | Button Color | Hex Wrench Size |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Badger | 1, 5, 15, 500, 1000 | Bottom center | Red (black pre-2010) | 1/4-inch |
| Evolution | Essential, Compact, Excel, Cover Control | Bottom center (side on Compact) | Red | 1/4-inch |
| Classic | Various | Bottom or side | Black or red | 1/8-inch or 1/4-inch |
If your model is not listed here, reach out to us through our contact page. We maintain a database of model-specific details and can help you track down the exact location for your unit.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to unplug the disposal to press the reset button?
Yes. You should unplug the unit before reaching under the sink. The reset button is connected to live electrical contacts.
If the wall switch is accidentally turned on while your hand is near those contacts, you risk a shock. Unplugging takes 5 seconds and eliminates that risk completely. For hardwired units, turn off the circuit breaker.
Why is the reset button on the bottom and not the side?
The bottom location keeps the button away from water and splash damage. It is also the coolest part of the motor housing, which helps the bimetallic strip function correctly. Side-mounted buttons, found on some older models, are more exposed to moisture.
InSinkErator moved to bottom-mounting as a design improvement.
Can I push the reset button with a screwdriver?
You should not. Use your thumb or finger. A screwdriver or metal tool could damage the button mechanism or cause a short circuit.
Your finger provides enough force to click the button. If the button is stuck or requires tools to press, the mechanism is likely broken and needs professional attention.
How many times can the reset button be used?
The button is designed for repeated use. It is not a one-time device. There is no official limit on reset cycles.
However, each trip means the motor experienced an overload or overheating condition. Frequent trips indicate a problem that needs to be addressed. The mechanical contacts inside the button will eventually wear out after many resets, typically after hundreds of cycles.
What if I press the reset button and it does not click?
A missing click usually means one of three things. The button was already in the reset position. The motor is still too hot and the bimetallic strip is holding the button out.
Or the internal mechanism is broken. Wait 10 minutes and try again with firm pressure. If there is still no click, the unit likely needs replacement.
Will pressing the reset button fix a disposal that is humming?
No. A humming disposal means the motor is getting power but cannot spin. That is a physical jam, not an electrical trip.
You need to clear the jam using the hex wrench through the bottom hole. After clearing the jam, press the reset button to restore normal operation. The humming itself did not trip the overload protector.
The jam caused the motor to draw high current, which then tripped the protector. Both steps are needed.